By Roman Chernikov

I love chip carving, and I like experimenting with patterns. For a fresh new look, I used traditional chips to create two summer scenes. I use the tiles as coasters, but they would also make great decorations for a memorabilia box or key holder. If you want a more colorful finish, learn how to add stain to make the chip details pop!

Making a Coaster Cut the squares to size. Transfer the patterns to the blanks using a hot tool with a laser print or graphite transfer paper. Strop your knife. I use simple three-corner chips with straight edges to carve these scenes. Refer to the photos to keep track of where the deepest part of the chip should be. Apply several light coats of acrylic spray finish or apply an oil finish, such as walnut, tung, or boiled linseed oil.

TIP Warming Up Carve several chips on a practice board before you start the project. This helps to ensure that your hand position is correct and your knife is sharp. Draw your own practice board or buy a preprinted board.

The post Chip-Carving a Summer Scene appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

By Rick Wiebe

I carved my first wooden cup (called a kuksa in Finland and a kasa in Sweden) 30 years ago on a backpacking trip in the northern Canadian Rockies. The cup, which I made for a friend who had lost a plastic one, was pretty crude, but it was steeped in history. French Canadian canoe men who made their living in the fur trade during the 1600s and 1700s were called “voyageurs.” They carved their own cups from birch burls, and one cup lasted a lifetime for them. There are advantages to wooden cups. Recent scientific studies indicate that wood has antibacterial properties, which makes it more hygienic than plastic. Also, you will have a hard time burning your lips on a wooden mug. If you wish to carve your wooden cup outside, try building a carver’s frame to be able to carve any project in your own backyard!

	Roughing Out The Shape Step 1  Hollow the inside of the cup. You can use a variety of tools to hollow the inside of the cup. While a pocketknife will work, a bent knife is easier. To speed up the hollowing, use a drill with a Forstner bit or use a variety of straight and bent gouges.
	Step 2 Shape the outside of the cup. Sketch the shape onto the outside and remove the excess wood with a knife or gouge. I turn the cup over and carve down against a firm solid surface (not your leg).
	Refining the Project Step 3 Refine the cup. Smooth the inside of the rim with a knife to make it comfortable for your lips. Then, smooth and flatten the bottom to make sure the cup doesn’t tip when you set it down.
	Step 4 Rough out the handle. Sketch the handle shape onto the blank. Then, rough it out with a knife.
	Step 5 Refine the handle. Carve a small groove on the top of the handle for your thumb. Test the grip to make sure it’s comfortable as you hold it, and adjust it as needed.
	Step 6 Finish carving the rim. Smooth the underside of the lip, and angle it slightly to create a comfortable surface for your lower lip. Then, round the top to make it comfortable for your top lip.
	Step 7 Add the details. I carved a small groove around the bottom to dress up the cup a bit. I also drilled a hole in the handle for a hanging cord. But you could also let the wood dry thoroughly (as described above), and then make it an ongoing project to decorate the cup on the trail. Just be sure to sign and date it!

Get the Summer 2023 Issue [button link=”hhttps://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/magazines/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-103-summer-2023-wci103.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

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Scroll down for a sneak peek!

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In This Issue

Patterns

	Summer Harvest Bowl Share the season’s bounty with a stunning chip carved vessel By Marty Leenhouts
	Lighthouse In-the-Round Make a nautical novelty with a few pieces of basswood By Aaron and Andy Mayer
	Carving a Hot-Air Balloon Pay tribute to a legendary mode of transport with this vivid little project By Mehmet Berat Tas

Techniques

	Honeybee Relief Channel those summer vibes in a sweet ode to backyard pollinators By Lucy Fox
	Painting a Power-Carved Bluebird Texturing, layering, blending: this realistic flier is all about the details By Randy Conner

Projects

	Caricature Pirate Captain Peg legs are so last season—and it looks like this seafarer just got an upgrade By Dwayne Gosnell
	Carved Succulents Turn Instagram’s favorite plant into a wooden desk sitter using just one knife!    By David Young
	Stylized Nuthatch Perch this dynamic bird on a real tree branch By Wouter de Bruijn
	Tic-Tac-Toe Build this classic game with some string and branches from your backyard By Frank and Lillian Egholm
	Whittled Turtle Transform a block of wood into a sea of woodchips in this cute project By Tom Hindes
	Kelly the Clown This colorful circus performer is sure to be the life of the party By Bob Kozakiewicz
	Four-Point Ribbon Create a classic whimsey in just a few steps By Garth Burgon
	Uncle Sam Chip Clip Carve a patriotic addition to your pantry By Mark Akers
	Simple Dinosaur Travel back to the Jurassic Period with a creature you can carve using just three tools By Parn Aniwat
	Shaving Brush Caricature Personalize your beard-care routine with a handcarved handle By Roger Beane

Features

	Choosing Wood for Beginners New to carving? Never fear! Here are the best materials for the job By Jon Deck
	The Basics of Sharpening Properly prepare your knife for safe and enjoyable carving By Staff of Woodcarving Illustrated
	The Right Bench Knife for You Looking for your first carving tool or a reliable upgrade? Check out these quality options By Staff of Woodcarving Illustrated
	Teaching Kids to Carve Thinking about bringing a child into the fold? Here are some things to consider By Doug Stowe

Web Extras

Free Project  Create two simple but stunning combs from Keoma McCaffrey.

[button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/?p=22167&preview=true” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Click here for Simple Comb Project [/button]

More Project Downloads  Discover additional projects and patterns in our How-To section.

[button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/blog/category/patterns/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Click here for the How To section [/button]

Get the Summer 2023 Issue [button link=”hhttps://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/magazines/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-103-summer-2023-wci103.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Woodcarving Illustrated Summer 2023, Issue #103 appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

Scroll down for a sneak peek!

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In This Issue

Features

	Schaaf’s New Tool Sets Take your pick from three sets of hard-working hand tools that really hold an edge By Lora S. Irish and Staff of Woodcarving Illustrated
	Razaire Mini X60 Smoke Extractor Unit keeps your lungs safe and your pyrography workspace clear of smoke By Michele Parsons
	Lifelong Student From BAND-AID®s to the CCA, caricature carver Dwayne Gosnell reflects on his carving journey By Hannah Carroll

Techniques

	Carving a Flat-Plane Character  This Nordic-inspired piece is a study in creating dynamism with a single knife By Charles Banks
	Magnolia Blossoms Learn to create realism and drama in this deep relief carving By Rosanna Coyne

Projects

	Carving a Common Kingfisher Create the base for this bird with a real twig By Wouter de Bruijn
	Tiny Carved Gnomes Complete this simple, customizable figure in one sitting—and then make a whole army of them! By David Young
	Happy-Go-Lucky Turtle Roll into summer with this little reptile By Ken Kuhar
	Carving a Flower Barrette  This relief carved accent holds a lot of hair By Ivan Govaerts
	Five-Point Whimsey  Whittle a double star in just five working steps By Garth Burgon
	Stylized Whale Carve this languid leviathan with just a few simple details By Parn Aniwat
	Classic Rosette Relief  Hone your carving skills on this traditional Tudor-style relief By Lucy Fox
	Mini Detective  Take a bite out of crime with this small but powerful carve By Karen Scalin
	Scuttling Crab This sweet crustacean will make you want to don your flip-flops and retreat to the beach By Evgeny Vilkov
	Snorkeling Gnome Channel beachy vibes with this vacation-ready caricature By Matt Kincade

Patterns

	Mr. Vacation  This advanced carve is a one-way trip to paradise By Wayne Laramore
	The Dynamic Trio  Woodburn a charming farm scene using just one tip By Don Stephenson
	Old-World Plaque Clean chip carved lines and a quilt-like pattern give the perfect balance of classic and modern By Jan Jenson

Online Exclusives

Free Project  Carve Wayne Laramore’s tourist a suitcase for his big trip.

[button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/?p=21156&preview=true” bg_color=”#ff0000″] Click Here for Suitcase Instructions[/button]

Bonus Instructions  Visit our website to learn how to carve woodsy add-ons for David Young’s tiny gnomes. 

[button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/?p=21159&preview=true” bg_color=”#ff0000″] Click Here for Log and Stump Instructions[/button]

Extra Feature  See how carvers have transformed damaged trees into works of art.

[button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/?p=21161&preview=true” bg_color=”#ff0000″] Click Here for Tree Carving Article[/button]

Get the Summer 2022 Issue [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-99-summer-2022.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Woodcarving Illustrated Summer 2022, Issue #99 appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

By Lora S. Irish and Staff of Woodcarving Illustrated

MSRP
$112.95 (Foundation Set, factory sharpened)
$51.95 (Detail Set)
$78.95 (Expansion Set) 

Schaaftools.com

Three years ago, the WCI team reviewed Schaaf’s brand-new 12-piece foundation set with the hope that the manufacturer would expand its line of high-quality hand tools (see “Sharp Tools, Great Value,” issue #87). Now, they have: in addition to the foundation set (which, according to CEO Eli Pearlman, hasn’t changed), Schaaf offers a seven-piece expansion set complete with gouges, fishtails, and V-tools that complement the first set without any overlap. They’ve also added a four-piece detail set consisting of strictly fishtail gouges for fine detail work. 

Renowned relief carver and author Lora S. Irish prefers Schaaf’s tool sets for their tough steel, which she estimates to fall near 60 on the Rockwell Hardness Scale. This means that the tools not only sharpen well but hold an edge for long stretches of time. The steel also runs on the thicker side, letting the user “work the hardest of woods with a mallet without damaging the tool.” (For softer woods, such as basswood and butternut, Lora re-bevels her tools from the standard 23° to 15°.) 

Another notable feature of these sets is the size and shape of the handles. Lora, a carver with smaller hands, welcomes the tapered barrel design, as it offers a variety of grip options—no matter your hand size. 

For each of its three core sets, Schaaf offers both factory-ground and professionally sharpened options. If you go with the former, some basic sharpening will be necessary before you jump into carving. (For an easy step-by-step guide to sharpening all your hand tools, check out Lora’s new booklet below.) 

“These are excellent, long-tanged, long-handled, hard steel tools at an extremely reasonable price,” Lora said. “They provide good value and a nice range of sizes and shapes that will last a lifetime of woodcarving.”

Further Reading Sharpening Carving Tools for Beginners by Lora S. Irish Item 03122. Available for $9.99 + S&H (parcel post) from Fox Chapel Publishing, 800-457-9112, FoxChapelPublishing.com, or your local retailer.

Get the Summer 2022 Issue [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-99-summer-2022.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

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By Wayne Laramore

I decided to give my vacationer from the summer issue a suitcase for traveling. Of course, it needed to be tattered and worn.

Attach the pattern to blank or sketch it on, if desired. Use a detail knife to round off the sharp edges. Remove wood carefully from around the handle and the wheels. Carve the belt with the knife to give the case an added squeezed look. I like the rough appearance it gives. Paint the suitcase (see Paint Notes below) and let dry. Seal the carving with a clear spray finish. Make sure to carve my “Mr. Vacation” caricature from the summer issue, and then attach the suitcase to the carving’s base with a method of your choice to complete your tourist’s look.

Get the Summer 2022 Issue [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-99-summer-2022.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Mr. Vacation’s Suitcase appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

These little gnomes from the summer issue look great on their own, but they look even better when perched atop a stump in the forest.  To create your own stand for your gnome, follow the provided patterns and the carving and finishing tips below.

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The post Tiny Carved Gnome Stumps and Logs appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

Carve and paint this comical bird in an afternoon

By Don Swartz

Even a beginner can finish this carving in an afternoon. It’s a great way to practice making strong, deliberate cuts. Once you master the basic techniques, you can change the shape of some features to personalize them or add character. This piece was inspired by a 1950s pelican carving that I saw in a gift store. The distinct cuts evoke a great deal of character. I’ve made them in a variety of sizes; the basic technique is the same regardless of the size. After carving three or four, you’ll be finishing them in an hour.

Carving the Pelican Transfer the pattern to the blank and cut the side view with a band saw. Reduce the width of the beak and head. Then, shape the back, shoulders, tail, and feet. Carve the sloping front shoulders and add the details to the head. For a rustic look, I left the saw marks visible on the base. Add details to the base with a woodburner if desired.

Finishing the Pelican Paint the carving as desired. I used gray Age-It EASY liquid to make the carving look old and rustic. (Just paint it directly onto the wood.)

 

MATERIALS •Basswood, 2″ (5.1cm) thick: 3″ x 7 1/2″ (7.6cm x 19.1cm) • Acrylic paint •Antiquing fluid, such as Micro-Mark Age-It EASY (I use the gray)

TOOLS • Band saw • Carving knife • Palm V-tool •#3 palm gouge: 3/8″ (10mm) •#5 or #7 palm gouge: 3/8″ (10mm) • Paintbrushes

 

About the Author

Don Swartz of Lancaster, Pa., was a physical therapist for nearly 40 years. He is the owner of Hillcrest Carving, a carving supply store near Lancaster.

 

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By Mike Shipley

As you can see, even the forest has its own Uncle Sam. If you prefer, though, you could choose a different color scheme and paint the bear to resemble Abe Lincoln, a leprechaun, or even a bridegroom.

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The post Patriotic Bear appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

By Jim Feather
Step-by-step photos by Mike Mihalo

Why sail the high seas when you could learn to carve this swashbuckling character at home? If you’re new to caricature, this is an excellent project to begin with. I designed him so the center of the face falls on a corner rather than a flat space—this will allow you more freedom to play with depth and dimension right off the bat.

Getting Started

Start with a block of basswood. Make two lines along adjacent faces of the blank with a pencil, following the angle of the bottom of the hat. You’ll be carving on the corner, so the lines should form a peak right at the center of his face.

Roughing Out

Step 1

Make a stop cut along the bottom of the hat. Carve straight in with a rough out knife; do not undercut at all. Carve up to the stop cut on the corner to make a notch. Carve along the other lines with a 1/4″ (6mm) 45° V-tool. Deepen the grooves with the knife.

Step 2

Mark the top of the hat brim. Round the top of the hat. Leave wood for the feather, but remove some of the excess from the other side with the knife. Carve along the top of the hat brim with the 1/4″ (6mm) 45° V-tool. Use the knife to carve away more excess wood around the crown of the hat.

Step 3 

Round the corner of the hat above the nose. Use the knife. Make a stop cut along the eyeline and carve up to it from the cheek area.

Step 4

Make a stop cut along the bottom of the nose. Carve up to the stop cut to separate the nose from the mustache. Round the hat and feather. Mark the oversized wings of the nose and draw a centerline down the face, starting at the forehead.

Step 5

Carve up from the wings of the nose into the eye sockets. Use a 9/32″ (7mm) #11 gouge. Do this on both sides. Carve across the eye socket and meet up with the first cut to deepen the eye sockets. Carve between the eyebrows with the same tool.

Step 6

Shape the nose with the knife. Carve off the corners and draw the creases that run from the outer edges of the nose to the mouth. Make a stop cut along the lines with the knife, and then carve up to the stop cut to set in the sides of the mouth.

Step 7

Carve up alongside the edges of the beard and face. Use the 9/32″ (7mm) #11 gouge. This sets the width of the face and leaves space for sideburns. Free loose chips with the knife. Shape the hat.

Step 8

Remove some wood from above the eyebrows. Remember, one eyebrow will be lifted, so leave wood for that. Round the corners on the back and sides of the hat. Mark the location of both shoulders with an inverted V. Follow those lines with the knife and carve up to the stop cuts.

Step 9

Draw the outline of the beard. Carve along these lines with a 5/16″ (8mm) 60° V-tool. Draw the bottom of the cloak, so you don’t accidentally cut into the base area. With the knife, make a stop cut on the corners under the hair and under the cloak and carve up to the stop cuts to create notches. Connect the notches with the 5/16″ (8mm) 60° V-tool.

Step 10

Undercut the cloak. Use the knife along the V-tool cuts to deepen and undercut them. Tuck the cloak up under the beard with the knife. This sets in the location of all of the landmarks.

Adding the Details

Step 11

Round the mouth mound. Use the knife. Mark the bottom of the mustache and make a stop cut along the line. Carve up to the stop cut to distinguish the mustache from the face. Draw the smirking mouth. Make a stop cut along this line and carve down to the stop cut to open the mouth.

Step 12

Establish the lower lip. Make a shallow cut along the bottom of the lip with the 9/32″ (7mm) #11 gouge. Smooth the area with the knife. Tuck the lower lip up under the upper lip with the knife.

Step 13

Smooth out the eye and cheek area. Use the knife. Make this area as smooth as possible before you carve the eyes. Use the 9/32″ (7mm) #11 gouge inside the sockets if needed..

Tip: Looking From All Angles

At this stage, take a moment to look at the face from all angles. You might need to make small tweaks, like bringing the sideburn back slightly, so the carving will look good from the side as well as the front.

Step 14

Make a dot in the inside corner of each eye. Make sure they are even. Draw matching dots in the outside corners of the eyes and connect the dots. If the eyes are positioned properly, it should look like the carving is sleeping. Then draw an arc to complete each eyelid. Plunge the point of a detail knife in on the dot, with the knife following the top and bottom lines on all four corners of the eye. Move a bit away from the corner and carve up to the corner to free the chips. If the chip doesn’t pop right out, make the plunging cuts again. Do not pry it out, as this will create messy corners.

Step 15

Make shallow stop cuts along the bottom and top of the top eyelid. Use the detail knife. Carefully round the eye to these stop cuts. Extend the top eyelid out beyond the outer corner of each eye.

Step 16

Carve a groove above the eye. Use a 1/8″ (3mm) #11 gouge. This creates the upper eyelid. Repeat the process for the other eye.

Step 17

Make an S-shaped cut under each eye. Use the 1/8″ (3mm) #11 gouge. This creates slight bags under the eyes, which give the pirate a weathered look. Smooth the groove into the cheeks with the knife.

Step 18

Mark the edges of the nose. Use the tip of the detail knife to make a stop cut from the bottom of the nose to the top. Carve to the stop cut to separate the outer edges of the nose from the rest of the face. Smooth and shape the bottom of the nose. Then stab in the nostril holes. Use the 1/8″ (3mm) #11 gouge. Free the chips with the tip of the knife.

Step 19

Separate the teeth. Use the tip of the detail knife. I think about Chiclets gum when I’m making teeth—I want them to be big and cartoonish. If the teeth are too small, the carving looks creepy.

Step 20

Round and shape the hair. Use the knife. Remove any sharp corners. Repeat the process with the beard. Then mark the hair flow and follow the lines with the 9/32″ (7mm) #11 gouge. Stay away from the chin so you can leave a slight mound there.

Step 21

Refine the hair texture. Make short cuts among the existing ones with the 1/8″ (3mm) #11 gouge. Use the same tool to add texture to the mustache. Go back over the mustache with a 1/16″ (2mm) #11 gouge. Then make a few cuts on the beard and hair inside the larger grooves to create shadows. Notch the bottom of the beard with the rough out knife for additional texture. Undercut the hair slightly to create more shadow.

Step 22

Smooth the cloak with the knife. Draw the lapel. Then make a stop cut along the line with the knife. Carve up to the stop cut to separate the lapel from the jacket.

Step 23

Smooth the eyebrows with the knife. Then make little divots with the 1/16″ (2mm) #11 gouge to add some texture.

Step 24

Round the top of the feather. Use the knife. Shape the hat to fit the head. Use the 9/32″ (7mm) #11 gouge to hollow the area between the hat and feather. Mark the area where the feather attaches to the hat, make stop cuts along the lines, and carve up to the stop cuts. Switch back and forth between the gouge and knife to separate the feather from the hat.

Step 25

Make a scooping cut along the brim of the hat. Use the knife. Then round the corner slightly. Carve along the top of the hat brim with the 1/4″ (6mm) 45° V-tool to separate it from the crown of the hat. Use the knife to finish separating the feather from the hat.

Step 26

Soften the intersection between the back of the crown and the brim. Use the 9/32″ (7mm) #11 gouge. Draw the hatband and make stop cuts above and below it with the knife. Carve up to the stop cuts to separate the band from the rest of the hat. Draw the top of the binding where the feather attaches to the hat. Make a stop cut and carve to it to separate the feather from the binding.

Step 27

Round and soften the feather. Use the knife. Draw the shaft down the center of the feather. Carve down the shaft with the 1/4″ (6mm) 45° V-tool. Round the feather down to the V-groove with the knife. Make another cut with the 1/4″ (6mm) 45° V-tool parallel to the first cut to create a slight ridge.

Step 28

Draw the flow of the veins on the feather. Start on either side of the shaft, and carve short strokes outward with the 1/16″ (2mm) #11 gouge. Make curving cuts and pay attention to the grain direction to keep from splitting the wood. Draw a few bands on the binding and relieve the areas around them with the detail knife. Clean up your cuts and add any final tweaks.

Finishing

Dunk the carving in a mixture of boiled linseed oil and raw sienna oil paint. Wipe off the excess with clean cotton rags and let dry. Then paint the carving with thinned acrylics, referring to the Paint Notes (below). Once done, drybrush the feather with titanium white.

Download the pattern below:

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