Bristles

Naturally, the bristles are the most important part of the brush. They are made either with synthetic fibers (these are very “springy” and smooth in texture), natural fibers (hair of various animals—kolinsky sable, pony, hog, etc.) or a combination of the two fibers.

Natural bristles have barbs or scales, which make them thicker, stiffer, and a little harder to clean. Due to their stiffness, natural bristle brushes are mainly used for canvas painting with thicker paint. Typically, they are more expensive than synthetic brushes; however, some can be less expensive than the synthetic options.

Synthetic brushes, which are smoother and springier than their natural counterparts, go with a variety of paints and are typically easier to clean. I use mainly synthetic brushes for applying paint, but I reserve some natural bristle brushes for blending. Pricing depends on the size; I spend $3-$5 on smaller brushes and $10-$15 on larger ones. However, buying a set is usually cheaper.

Rounds

Workhorse of the set; used for applying paint and washes.

Flats

Used for painting large areas and adding textures, such as house or roof details.

Angled flats

Used like regular flats, but tip can reach into smaller areas.

Filberts

Good for blending or painting a soft edge.

Used for fine lines and detail

Blenders

Used to blur the border between two colors to form a gradation of color.

Fan brushes

Used to paint textured areas like clouds, trees, or leaves.

“Spoiled” brushes

Great for blending and adding texture (It may be the Yankee in me, but I have a hard time throwing a brush out!).

Washing Your Brushes

When using acrylics, have a container of water ready to wash your brushes instantly because the paint dries so quickly. Note: It is safe to wash acrylic paint off in your work or household sink. Use warm—not hot—water; hot water can cause the glue used to secure the bristles to fail.

Clean your oil paint brushes in a paint thinner before washing with water. Note: You can leave your paint thinner in a sealed jar, let the pigment settle, and reuse at a later time. Be sure to collect oil paint sludge and dispose of it at your local hazardous waste site. Do your best to remove all the paint, especially from the ferrule; paint left to dry here will cause the bristles to splay out and separate. 

After you wash your brushes in paint thinner and squeeze them with a cloth, give them a final wash with a brush cleaner; I like The Master’s Brush Cleaner (use as directed). A good brush cleaner will even restore a brush with hardened paint on it to some degree. Shape the bristles while they are wet and let them air dry.

Storing Your Brushes

Store your brushes upright in a container so the bristles don’t bend. I use a simple jar for organized storage and easy access. You can get carriers of all sizes at any art supply store if you need to transport your brushes and other painting supplies.

Summer Harvest Bowl

Share the season’s bounty with a stunning chip carved vessel

By Marty Leenhouts

Lighthouse In-the-Round

Make a nautical novelty with a few pieces of basswood

By Aaron and Andy Mayer

Carving a Hot-Air Balloon

Pay tribute to a legendary mode of transport with this vivid little project

By Mehmet Berat Tas

Honeybee Relief

Channel those summer vibes in a sweet ode to backyard pollinators

By Lucy Fox

Painting a Power-Carved Bluebird

Texturing, layering, blending: this realistic flier is all about the details

By Randy Conner

Caricature Pirate Captain

Peg legs are so last season—and it looks like this seafarer just got an upgrade

By Dwayne Gosnell

Carved Succulents

Turn Instagram’s favorite plant into a wooden desk sitter using just one knife!   

By David Young

Stylized Nuthatch

Perch this dynamic bird on a real tree branch

By Wouter de Bruijn

Tic-Tac-Toe

Build this classic game with some string and branches from your backyard

By Frank and Lillian Egholm

Whittled Turtle

Transform a block of wood into a sea of woodchips in this cute project

By Tom Hindes

Kelly the Clown

This colorful circus performer is sure to be the life of the party

By Bob Kozakiewicz

Four-Point Ribbon

Create a classic whimsey in just a few steps

By Garth Burgon

Uncle Sam Chip Clip

Carve a patriotic addition to your pantry

By Mark Akers

Simple Dinosaur

Travel back to the Jurassic Period with a creature you can carve using just three tools

By Parn Aniwat

Shaving Brush Caricature

Personalize your beard-care routine with a handcarved handle

By Roger Beane

Choosing Wood for Beginners

New to carving? Never fear! Here are the best materials for the job

By Jon Deck

The Basics of Sharpening

Properly prepare your knife for safe and enjoyable carving

By Staff of Woodcarving Illustrated

The Right Bench Knife for You

Looking for your first carving tool or a reliable upgrade? Check out these quality options

By Staff of Woodcarving Illustrated

Teaching Kids to Carve

Thinking about bringing a child into the fold? Here are some things to consider

By Doug Stowe

Getting Started

Draw the front-view pattern onto the blank. Cut around the perimeter with a band saw. Then, remove the excess wood with a 3/8″ (10mm) #6 gouge. Trace the side-view pattern onto the blank and use the same gouge to remove the excess.

Carving and Finishing 

Refer to the patterns often as you carve the piece. Be careful not to cut off the top spool for the carving blank; you’ll need this for the ears. I use a detail knife and a small V-tool to define the eye and mouth areas and a 1/8″ (3mm) #11 veiner to create texture inside the ears and on the tail, cheeks, and ruff. Mark the whisker dots in using a woodburner with a writing nib. If you plan to use the writing and skew nibs to burn the fur texture in just a few places rather than all over the body, brush on a pre-stain conditioner, such as Minwax, before you paint to prevent blotchiness. Add a clear gloss acrylic finish to the eyes to make them shine.

Materials

• Basswood, 2 1/2″ (6.4cm) thick: 3 1/4″ x 3 3/4″ (8.3cm x 9.5cm)

• Pre-stain conditioner, such as Minwax

• Acrylic paint: black, burnt sienna, burnt umber, latte, white

• Tung oil: low gloss

• Finish: clear gloss acrylic

• Sandpaper (optional)

Tools

• #6 gouge: 3/8″ (10mm)

• #11 veiner: 1/8″ (3mm)

• V-tool: small

• Detail knife

• Woodburner, variable temperature, with nibs: skew, writing (optional)

• Paintbrushes: soft, round, detail, short-bristled

Desiree Hajny of Blue Hill, Neb., has been a full-time sculptor of wood since 1985. Prior to that, she was a high school art instructor for six years. She has authored seven books and contributed to eight others. Desiree has also been a contributing author to periodicals in the United States and Europe. She was the third recipient of Woodcarving Illustrated’s “Woodcarver of the Year” award. Find more of Desiree’s work at hajny.fineartworld.com.