Getting Started

Sketch the top and side pattern views on the block with a pencil, or photocopy the patterns and attach them with repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the top view on a scroll saw, and then turn the piece on its side and secure it in a vise. Cut the second view on a band saw. Note: The side pattern view is too thick to cut on a scroll saw, as scroll saws can typically handle wood no more than 2″ (5.1cm) thick.

You’ll notice that this pattern has an arch shape. Straight hair combs and forks are great, but the arch shape sits around the contours of your head instead of just pressing against them. This allows you to wear it all day without getting a headache.

Carving

Shape the comb. Round over all harsh edges on the blank, including between the teeth, using a rotary tool with a fluted cone-shaped carbide cutter. Widen the space between the teeth, removing a little wood at a time and maintaining a soft arc shape between the teeth. Note: When carving spacing between the teeth, remember to round the arc shapes instead of squaring then off.

Refine the comb’s shape. Use the rotary tool with a sanding disc to smooth and round each tooth completely, tapering the teeth to somewhat sharp points with blunted ends. Then smooth the top and sides of the comb. Do this on the front and back. Add ornamentation as desired; I recommend woodburning, painting, or relief carving. I included a bonus relief carving pattern of oak and gingko biloba leaves, available online.

Tip: It’s All About The Teeth

In order for the comb to slide easily through your hair, it helps to round the two outermost teeth so they face slightly inward. The remaining (inner) teeth can be straight.

Finishing

Finish the comb. As this will be used in hair, a natural finish is always better; I recommend raw linseed oil mixed with a drop of lavender essential oil (substitute your favorite scent here). Over time, each comb will pick up the natural body oils of its owner and take on a glow all its own. If you prefer a clear, glossy finish, I recommend using three to four coats of a spray-on clear enamel, buffing with a fine sanding sponge between applications.

Tip: Go To Gift

Hair combs make wonder-ful gifts for anyone with long hair. Do you ever see women using pens or pencils to hold their hair up? They need a handmade hair comb! I like to leave one for my server when I leave an eating establishment.

Materials

• Hardwood, such as Osage orange or walnut, 1 1/2″ (3.8cm) thick: approx. 3″ x 6″ (7.6cm x 15.2cm)

• Pencil

• Spray adhesive: repositionable (optional)

• Sandpaper: assorted grits

• Natural finish, such as raw linseed oil

• Essential oil, such as lavender: 1 drop (optional)

• Clear spray enamel (optional)

• Acrylic paints (optional)

Tools

• Band saw

• Scroll saw

• Rotary tool with bits: sanding disc, fluted cone-shaped carbide cutter

• Sanding sponge

• Vise

• Woodburner (optional)

Keoma McCaffrey lives in Northern California with her husband, Jeff, and three sons, and a passel of animals. She carves most of her work from salvaged local hardwoods. She is a moderator on the Woodcarving Illustrated message board, woodcarvingillustrated.com/forum.

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For Diane

This piece is a tribute to a beloved sister-in-law, Diane Nelson, who died from breast cancer in 2019. She absolutely loved autumn and Halloween, and I carved a unique Santa for her every Christmas for her collection. She was an artist and art teacher, and I inherited a box of paints from her. I wanted to use them to make something special.

Getting Started

Transfer the pattern to the blank. Cut the profiles with a band saw, and then mark the major landmarks.

Carving

Use a rough out knife to block out the arms, cat, jack-o’-lantern, and foot. Knock off the sharp corners and round the features. Redraw the detail lines as you remove wood. Drill a 1/4″ (6mm)-dia. hole into the hand you will insert the staff before carving the knuckles. Use the knife to shape the cat. Separate the head from the hood, and then carve the nose and eye sockets. Carve the hair and adjust the beard and mustache to your desired length. Round the back of the hood. Draw the eyes, round out the eyeballs, and then create the forehead. Use the tip of the knife to carve the jack-o’-lantern’s face and ridges. Add creases and folds throughout the robe. Carve the staff and raven separately, and then attach the bird to the end of the staff with a toothpick and glue. Secure the staff in the hand with glue.

Painting and Finishing

Wash the carving in warm water with a soft brush and liquid dish soap, such as Dawn®. Let dry, and then seal the carving with a coat of semigloss clear polyurethane spray. I went for a traditional Halloween look (see Paint Notes below). The details on the coat are painted, but you could woodburn them, if desired. Apply three part nautral and one part dark of Watco® wax with a clean brush. Wipe off the wax immediately with a cotton cloth. 

Paint Notes

Face: warm beige (1), drybrushed with burnt orange (1)

Hands: warm beige (1)

Robe: black (4), cadmium yellow (3), pumpkin calabaza (2), titanium white (4)

Crow: black (4)

Cat: baby pink (1), black (4), light olive green (1), baby pink (1)

Eyes: black (4), titanium white (4), light olive green (1)

Hair, eyebrows, and beard: dolphin grey (3), drybrushed with light ivory (3) and titanium white (4)

Jack-o’-lantern: black (4), lantern orange (1), woodland green (1)

Staff and shoe: burnt umber (1)

1 – Americana®

2 – Anita’s

3 – Ceramcoat®

4 – Craft Smart®

• Basswood, 2 1/2″ (6.4cm) thick: Santa 2 3/4″ x  7″  (7cm x 17.8cm)

• Basswood, 5/8″ (1.6cm) thick: staff  3/8″ x 6 3/4″ (1cm x 17.1cm)

• Basswood, 1/2″ (1.3cm) thick: raven 3/4″ x 2 3/8″ (1.9cm x 6cm)

• Marker and pencil

• Glue: wood

• Toothpicks

• Cleaner and degreaser, such as Dawn®

• Cotton cloths

• Acrylic paints, such as Americana®: baby pink, burnt orange, burnt umber, lantern orange, light olive green, warm beige, woodland green; such as Anita’s: pumpkin calabaza; such as Ceramcoat®: cadmium yellow, dolphin grey, light ivory; such as Craft Smart®: black, titanium white

• Finish: semigloss clear polyurenthane spray, such as Deft®

• Antique wax finish, such as Watco®

• Band saw

• Knife: rough out

• Drill with bit: 1/4″ (6mm)-dia. 

• Paintbrushes: assorted

• Woodburner (optional)

Russell Scott of St. Paul, Minn., has been carving since 1999. He is the author of Carving Undercover Santas by Fox Chapel Publishing and teaches online and in person at carving shows and meetings. Check out his free instructional videos on YouTube at Scottcarvings. See more of his work on Etsy and purchase his roughouts at scottcarvings.com.

Getting Started

Transfer the pattern to the blank. I use a thick board that I slice into thinner blanks. Cut around the outline of the eagle. Then set the rip fence of a band saw and slice the board into 1/4″ (6mm)-thick blanks. Use a carving knife to clean up the perimeter of the eagle.

Carving

Taper the beak back to the line. Remove some wood from the lower part of the beak. Then remove the sharp corners from the neck and back of the head. Draw the eyebrow with a pencil. Carve a V-shape groove on the line, using the carving knife or a V-tool. Remove wood from under the eye and next to the beak. Then remove a sliver of wood from the top corner of the beak to separate it from the rest of the head.

Make a stop cut around the eye. Carve up to the stop cut to separate the eye from the head, and then use the knife to round the eye. Carve the nostril hole. Make a stop cut along the top beak and shave down the lower jaw. Add the feather texture; I use a 1/4″ (6mm) #9 gouge, but you can use the carving knife. Undercut the bottom of the neck slightly and carve notches at the ends of the feathers. Deepen the feather texture with the carving knife or V-tool.

Finishing

Mark the location of the pupil. Use an awl or ice pick. Hold a 5/64″ (1.9mm)-dia. drill bit between your fingers and drill a small hole for the eye bead. Glue the eye bead in place. Glue a magnet or pin to the back, if desired. Paint the eagle, and then seal it with a clear spray in a satin or matte finish.

• Basswood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick (makes three):
2″ x 2 1/2″ (5.1cm x 6.4cm)

• Pencil

• Silver bead

• Glue, such as Elmer’s®

• Acrylic paint: sunbeam (eyes), tangerine (beak), vintage        white and cottage white (feathers)

• Finish: clear satin or matte spray

• Pin back or magnet

• Eyelet (optional)

• Band saw

• Carving knife

• #9 palm gouge: 1/4″ (6mm)
(optional)

• V-tool: small (optional)

• Awl or ice pick

• Drill bit: 5/64″ (1.9mm) dia.

Pete Zanauskas lives in Massachusetts and has three daughters. A lover of the outdoors, Pete has been carving since 1995.

Carving a Hiker

I carved my hiker from one piece of wood. Add a separate, larger base if desired. I left the wood in the negative space between the body and hiking stick to strengthen the weak areas and protect the integrity of the carving. If you prefer, remove it after you carve the majority of the piece. My carving has hair covering the face so I didn’t have to carve eyes, which can be challenging. To make it even easier, cover the ears with hair as well.

Finishing the Project

Use a woodburner to separate the areas to be painted. This prevents paint from bleeding from one area to another. I use acrylic paints thinned with water to allow the wood grain to show through. I use between 7 and 10 drops of water per drop of paint. You can adjust the intensity of the color by adding more or less water to the wash. I added the lines on the jacket for interest, using an ultra fine point Sharpie® marker. Paint the hiker using colors that have meaning to you or draw a logo on the hat or shirt to show your team spirit. 

Allow the paint to thoroughly dry. Then spray the carving with two light coats of Minwax® clear satin polyurethane. This finish helps protect the carving from oils transferred through handling and keeps the colors vibrant.

Paint Notes

Hat: tangelo orange (1) mixed with a drop of tomato red (1)

Bedroll: deep midnight blue (1) 

Exposed skin: mixture of flesh (2), medium flesh (2), and dark flesh (2)

Jacket: tomato red (1)

Backpack: lime green (2) 

Shorts: mink tan (1)

Walking stick: burnt sienna (1) 

Boots: burnt umber (1)

Boot tread and hair: soft black (1)

Drybrush texture: buttermilk (1)

1 DecoArt Americana®

2 Delta Ceramcoat®

Materials

• Basswood, 7/8″ (2.2cm) thick: 3 1/4″ x 7 1/4″ (8.3cm x 18.4cm)

• Acrylic paints, such as DecoArt Americana®: burnt umber, tomato red, deep midnight blue, mink tan, burnt sienna, tangelo orange, soft black, buttermilk; such as Delta Ceramcoat®: flesh, medium flesh, dark flesh, lime green

• Marker: ultra fine-point Sharpie®

• Finish, such as Minwax® clear satin polyurethane

Tools

• Knife: 1 1/2″ (38mm)-long blade

• #5 fishtail gouge: 1/2″ (13mm)

• #5 gouge: 1/4″ (6mm)

• #9 gouge: 5/16″ (8mm)

• V-tool, bent: 1/4″ (6mm) 45°

• Woodburner with nib: spade

• Paintbrushes

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