MATERIALS

• Basswood turning, pear-shaped: 2 5/8″ (6.7cm) dia. by 3 1/2″ (8.9cm) tall

• Simple Green®

• Acrylic paints: alizarin crimson, black, burnt sienna, ivory white, medium flesh, tompte red

• Finish: boiled linseed oil

• Oil paint: burnt sienna

• Mineral spirits

• Paper towels

TOOLS

• Carving knife

• #11 gouges: 5/32″ (4mm), 3/16″ (5mm), 9/32″ (7mm)

• V-tools: 1/8″ (3mm), 1/4″ (6mm), 3/8″ (10mm)

• Paintbrushes: assorted

Roger Beane is a retired middle school teacher who started carving in the early 1980s. He carves a variety of caricatures and Christmas items and teaches carving classes. He lives in Oskaloosa, Iowa, with his wife, Andrea (who helped him write this article).

Santa’s List

Discover a unique painting technique that provides a stunning depth of color

By Kevin Applegate

Cottonwood Bark Santa

Embrace the uniqueness of this free-form wood and use its flaws to your advantage

By Bob Hershey

White Christmas Bear

This friendly guy is ready to spread some cheer during the holidays

By Dale Green

Lumberjack Santa

Carve an undercover Claus who’s hunting for the perfect Christmas tree

By Jonathan Creason

Arctic Fox

Practice carving movement with this frosty creature on the run

By Wouter de Bruijn

Happy Christmas Tree

Get into the holiday spirit with a cheerful carving that looks like a cartoon character

By Gerard Canavan

Bottle Buddy Santa

Create a gift that keeps on giving with a jolly bottle opener

By Dwayne Gosnell

Santa Pyrography

A few basic woodburning nibs create a jolly and easy holiday wall hanging

By Minisa Robinson

Christmas Elf

Showcase the hard workers of the North Pole as they prepare for Santa’s big night

By Matt Kincade

Caricature Candy Cane

Big posable hands and friendly expressions make these ornaments irresistible

By Pete Zanauskas

Elf Boot Ornament

These festive little ornaments make a charming jingle jangle

By Wade Huggins

Festive Rolling Pins

Cook up a chip-carved holiday cookie press 

By Jan Jenson

Chip-Carved Ornaments

A layer of acrylic paint accentuates a festive design

By Charlene Lynum

Old Fashioned Ornaments

Imitate the look of retro glass decorations with this fun project

By Jim Hiser

Two-in-One Knife Box

Keep carving tools safe and ready to go with this compact geometric case

By Marty Leenhouts

Painting

This Santa has a very simple palette. The cheek color is enhanced using powdered pastels lightly applied with a soft-bristle brush. Don’t flip the brush or it will contaminate the surrounding mustache.

FACE: medium flesh with shading flesh applied in the shadowed areas. Santa red is washed over the cheeks.

EYES: uniform blue, lamp black pupil with white highlight.

BEARD & HAIR: antique white with snow white drybrushed across higher ridges.

UNDERGARMENT & BANDS: Paynes grey with lamp black band.

COAT: Napa red with lamp black shading.

FUR TRIM: buttermilk with white drybrushed across high spots.

BELT & MITTENS: lamp black with copper accent lines.

FINISH: If you use any powdered pastels for cheek colors, blow any loose powder off before sealing with acrylic matte spray. This piece is antiqued using Indian Sand Trewax Floor Paste Wax applied with an old soft toothbrush. Immediately use Clear Trewax Paste Wax to pull off the excess Indian Sand. You may work back and forth using the two waxes, until you are satisfied with the effect. Allow the wax to set about three minutes; then buff with a soft brush or an old soft tee shirt.

MATERIALS

• Basswood, 3″ (7.6cm) thick: x 3-1/2″  x 7-1/2″ (8.9 x 19.1cm)
• Acrylic paints, such as DecoArt Americana: antique white, buttermilk, lamp black, medium flesh, Napa red, Payne’s gray, Santa red, shading flesh, snow white, uniform blue
• Acrylic sealer, such as DecoArt Americana: matte
• Trewax Floor Paste Wax: Indian sand/mahogany
• Trewax Paste Wax: clear

TOOLS

• Carving tools of choice
• Soft brush
• Clean cloth

Tina has been woodcarving since 1981 when she took a personal enrichment class through her local community college. Tina has authored several books including Creative Christmas Carving and Easy Weekend Carving Projects.

Beginner’s Guide to Finishes

There are many different approaches to finishing a carving—where to start? Here are some tips

By Staff of Woodcarving Illustrated

Carving the Classics

Mary May’s lush, old-world woodwork transports us to an elegant past

By Dorissa Bolinski

Stylized Christmas Tree with Ornaments

Carve and trim this tree from the comfort of your workbench

By Dave Kergan

20-Minute Whittled Wolf

Quickly carve this woodland creature in a flat-plane style

By Tom Hindes

Stovepipe Hat Santa

This cool guy in a jaunty topper is stepping out for the holidays

By Dave Francis

Waddling Wally

Let this charming penguin keep you warm on a cold day

By Gerard Canavan

Mouse in a Mitten

Stir up some sweetness with this quick and cute carve

By Robert Rangel

Sound Asleep Santa Ornament

This free-falling design is sure to land on your list of favorite winter baubles

By Rick Stoddard

Snowman Caricature

This season, carve up a character who just can’t wait for the flurries to fall

By Bruce Ankeny

Geometric Star

Use chip carving techniques to make a striking (and beginner-friendly) gift

By Mary May

Easy Iceberg and Penguins

Whittle a sweet Antarctic scene using just a knife and some scrap wood

By L. P. Parslow

Lantern and Berries Layered Ornament

A warm candle lights the night in this cozy window scene

By Betty Padden

Tree Man Ornament

This gnome-like caricature is a perfect first carving project

By James Spencer

After the Sleigh Ride Santa Caricature

Santa deserves a rest after his gift-giving spree wraps up

By Bruce Ankeny

Stocking Ornaments

Bundle up your Christmas tree with these cozy little chip-carved decorations

By Charlene Lynum

Folk Art Farm Animals

Put your own spin on these rustic barnyard beauties

By Jill Motovidlak

 Comfort Rhino

Quiet your worries with a smooth creature that fits perfectly in your palm

By Tom Mellott

Singing Christmas Trees

Who needs a barbershop quartet when you have a choir of expressive evergreens?

By Russell Scott

Simple Santa Whistle

Make some noise for the holidays with this old-fashioned toy

By W. Todd Martin

Firefighter Caricature Busts

Striking facial expressions and subtle paint washes bring this brave crew to life

By Kevin Applegate

Kirigami Snowflake

Reimagine a classic childhood project—in wood!

By Paul Bruillard

Icicle Ornaments

Chip carve 3D icicles with this easy-to-follow technique

By Charlene Lynum

Getting Started

Pre-sand the wood blanks. Start with a rougher-grit sandpaper, such as 120, and work your way up to 400- or 600-grit. Note: Be sure to wear a respirator and eye protection while sanding. Gently wipe the dust off the wood, or remove it with a can of compressed air.

Photocopy the patterns, trim them to the size of the wood, and then place in position over the surface of each round. Slip a small piece of graphite paper under the pattern (graphite side down), and tape the pattern and graphite paper to the wood round with some blue painter’s tape. Trace over the pattern guidelines with a red ballpoint pen to transfer the image onto the wood. (A red pen can be easier to see on a black-and-white pattern, so you don’t miss any areas.) As you trace, occasionally lift the pattern and paper to make sure the lines are transferring properly.

Remove the patterns and tape. Preheat your woodburning tool. If you’re using a solid-tip burner, use high or maximum heat. If you’re using a wire-tip burner, use a medium heat setting.

Burning

Using a woodburner with a fine writing nib, focus on the basic structure of each snowflake and burn the simple lines. Be sure to use a light, even pressure while “floating” the point across the surface of the wood. It helps to hold the burner at a slight angle for smoother lines. If you hold the burner perfectly vertical, the point is more prone to sinking into the wood instead of floating across the surface.

Add embellishments to each simple design, such as teardrop shapes on the outer edges and dots where points come together. Feel free to get creative!

Hold the burner at an angle.

Adding Paint

If you’d like to add watercolor paint to the coasters, it’s important to pre-treat them with clear gesso. Apply a small amount of clear gesso on each coaster, and then spread it around with a smooth paintbrush. Allow the gesso to dry for at least 24 hours.

Add paint. For this project, I wanted the woodburning to stand out, so I kept the paint on the outer edges of the rounds. Apply water across the surface of each coaster with a smooth paintbrush. While the coaster is still wet, use a small brush to “drop” blue paint along the outer edge and allow the paint to bleed toward the center. Feel free to pick up the coaster and tip it from side to side to help the paint to flow. Keep in mind that the paint will dry lighter than it appears when wet.

Adding Resin

Allow the painted coasters to dry for a few days. Then prop each coaster up on a paper cup, mix a small amount of resin according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and pour it over the top to protect the coasters. Use a wooden stick or gloved fingers to spread the resin on the outer edges for a smooth finish. Note: If using these coasters consistently with hot beverages, opt for a heat-resistant epoxy. Always follow the directions and safety precautions that come with your choice of resin. After the resin has cured, sand any drips from the bottom, and then apply glue-on felt pads to protect counters and other surfaces.

Tip the coaster to allow the paint to bleed toward the center.

TIPS

Trim Your Tree

Instead of coasters, attach a metal screw-eye into the top of each piece, and then tie on a ribbon to create festive ornaments.

No Pressure!

If you press too hard when burning lines, the point can dig into the wood, causing uneven lines or overburn. The burner can sink down in between softer areas of the grain and then rise back up again. This makes lines look narrow in one area but wider in another.

MATERIALS

• Unfinished birch rounds, 3-1/2″ (8.9cm)-dia.

• Graphite transfer paper

• Red pen

• Tape: masking or blue painter’s

• Sandpaper: assorted grits to 600

• Tack cloth or can of compressed air

• Clear gesso

• Watercolor paints of choice (optional)

• 2-part epoxy (optional)

• Paper cups

• Glue-on felt pads

• Screw eye (optional)

• Decorative ribbon (optional)

• Wooden sticks

TOOLS

• Woodburner with nib: writing

• Paintbrushes

• Scissors

• Sander: orbital (optional)

Minisa Robinson, of Rifle, Colo., stumbled across pyrography by accident in 2009 while exploring the art of woodcarving. Since then, she has taught herself to create highly detailed woodburnings, instructional DVDs, books, and instant downloads to teach others the craft as well. Minisa’s goal is to push the limits of pyrography, and she encourages others to view the art in a new light. For more of her work, visit minisapyrography.com or patreon.com/minisa. Her book, Burning Realistic Animals, is available at foxchapelpublishing.com.

Carving the Tree

Trace the pattern onto the wood and cut the outline. Taper the boughs on the front and remove any saw marks with a carving knife. Mark the bottom of the nose and the smile lines. Make stop cuts along the lines and carve up to the stop cuts to create a flat surface for the mouth. Carve the slope of the nose and the eye sockets. Then, carve the details. Use a carving knife, micro gouges, and V-tools to carve and texture the face and branches.

Make a stop cut where the trunk joins the tree, and carve back to the stop cut to separate the trunk from the tree. Round the trunk and add the bark texture with the V-tool.

Painting the Tree

Scrub the carving with a toothbrush and dish soap, rinse, and let dry. Paint the tree with thin washes of acrylic paint. When the paint is dry, apply a few light coats of clear Deft or Krylon matte finish and let it dry. 

I use Floyd Rhadigan’s method of antiquing the carving. Mix equal parts of Watco natural finishing wax and Watco dark finishing wax. Apply the mixture to the entire carving with a large round brush. Blot the excess with paper towels and allow it to dry. Then, buff it with clean paper towels. Note: Dispose of the paper towels carefully; the boiled linseed oil in the wax can cause the paper to spontaneously combust. Finish the ornament by adding a screw eye on the top.

Materials

• Basswood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: 2 1/2″ x 3 3/4″ (6.4cm x 9.5cm)

• Acrylic paint: black, blue jay, camel, golden brown, leaf green, sprout, white

• Clear matte finish such as Deft or Krylon 

• Finishing wax such as Watco: natural, dark

• Screw eye

Tools

• Carving knives: bench, detail

• V-tool, 60°: 1/8″ (3mm)

• Micro gouges: 2mm, 3mm, and 5mm

• #8 gouge: 1/4″ (6mm)

• Paintbrush: large round

Larry Green started carving in 1970 and has written six woodcarving project books with artist Mike Altman. He has worked part-time in the woodcarving shop at Dollywood Theme Park. Larry is a member of the Southern Highland Craft Guild and was selected as an Indiana Artisan. He teaches a weeklong class at John Campbell Folk School. You can contact him at lgreen@sent.com.

Getting Started

Prepare your blanks. Sand them smooth with 220-grit sandpaper. This will allow a smooth transfer of the patterns to the wood and minimize irregularities as you carve the patterns. Transfer the patterns by your method of choice; I prefer to use spray adhesive, but you can use graphite paper or a heat transfer tool. When placing the patterns on the wood, line up one set of points with the direction of the grain. Note: I also like to place all the patterns I’m going to make on a single piece of wood and carve them before cutting the perimeters. This gives me more wood around the patterns to rest my hand on, and helps me keep the knife angled correctly. 

Carving

I like to use two knives for chip carving: a small chip carving knife for the smaller chips and internal lines and a large one for the larger chips. Note: Try to create nice, crisp lines between any two adjacent chips and maintain a consistent angle throughout the carving process. If you are having trouble with the larger chips, try cutting the center of the chip out first as practice, holding the same angle. Then go back and cut along the true pattern lines.  

Carve the chips. On the patterns with lines in the middle, carve the inner circle of chips first, and then carve the lines that join them. These lines need to be moderately wide, or else they will close when you apply finish and the grain expands. Use a stab knife to make the cuts on the dotted lines. Place the point of the knife on the line closest to the center, and then tilt the knife toward the outside of the pattern while stabbing it into the wood. If you don’t have a stab knife, just leave the dotted lines out. Look it over carefully before making your first cut on the inner section.

Once all the patterns are carved, cut the designs out on a scroll saw. Sand away any fuzzies on the bottom of the cutouts with 220-grit sandpaper. Then remove the patterns. If you glued the patterns on, use mineral spirits to remove the paper. If you traced them or used a heat transfer tool, make sure to remove any remaining lines.

Staining and Finishing

I like to go over my carvings with a magnifying glass to make sure there are no areas with wood left in the chips and all the ridges are crisp. Once satisfied, brush on a coat of pre-stain wood conditioner, making sure to coat the edges that have end grain twice. This will help keep these edges from absorbing too much stain and turning distractingly dark. Wipe off any excess conditioner with a fresh paper towel. Coat the snowflakes with stain; I used Minwax® golden pecan. Wipe off the excess and let them dry overnight. 

Apply finish. I used three coats of semigloss spray, letting the finish dry between coats. Make sure to check the edges and lightly sand them between coats to remove any rough areas. Then buff the entire piece with a brown paper bag for a nice smooth surface.

Assemble the ornaments. I used eye pins from a craft store to make the eye hook at the top of the ornament. These can be pushed into the wood with a set of needle-nose pliers. I’ve never needed to use glue, but you can, if desired. Hang with a decorative ribbon or string and display. 

• Basswood, 1/4″ to 3/8″ (6mm to 1cm) thick: sized for patterns

• Sandpaper: 220-grit

• Spray adhesive, 3M #45

• Paper towels 

• Pre-stain wood conditioner, such as Minwax®

• Stain, such as Minwax®: golden pecan #245

• Finish, such as Rust-Oleum®: semigloss

• Brown paper bag

• Eye pins: 5 each, small 

• Decorative ribbon or string

• Scroll saw with blades: #3 or #5 reverse-tooth 

• Knives: stab, small chip carving, large chip carving 

• Paintbrush

• Magnifying glass (optional)

• Needle-nose pliers 

Tom Noller started carving in 2009 after retiring as an engineer in food and beverage manufacturing. He is the president and newsletter editor for the Lake Ray Hubbard Woodcarving Club in Rowlett, Texas. Tom enjoys chip carving, caricature carving, and cottonwood bark carving. E-mail him at txwoodguy@gmail.com.

Getting Started

Trace the tree profile with a pencil, making sure the grain runs vertically. Cut the shape on a band saw. Since this is a carving in the round, meaning it will be lifelike and viewed from all angles, always keep turning your block of wood while carving to keep the piece symmetrical. Try not to get carried away with working on just one angle, or you may remove too much wood.

Carving and Finishing

Rough out the project. Round the blank and establish the basic shape of the tree with a 1 9/16″ (40mm) #5 gouge. Draw the landmarks for branches with the pencil. Follow the branch lines with a 3/8″ (10mm) 60˚ V-tool. Then rough in these areas with a 1″ (25mm) #5 fishtail gouge, taking your time and checking your work often. With a bench knife, clean up the branches you just carved. 

Paint the trees with phthalo green. Drybrush the carving with white to create a snowy-cap effect, if desired. Antique the carving. Note: If you are apprehensive about antiquing your carving, practice on a scrap piece of basswood first. I applied a light coat of neutral shoe cream to the tree. This will allow you to antique the carving with a darker shoe cream without making the wood too dark. Buff with a clean cloth. Then apply dusky brown shoe cream. Wipe it off and buff to a nice shine. Display as desired.

• Basswood, 4″ (10.2cm) square: 12″ (30.5cm) long
• Pencil
• Acrylic paints, such as Ceramcoat®: phthalo             green; Americana®: snow white
• Kelly’s Shoe Cream: dusky brown, neutral
• Clean rags

• Band saw
• Bench knife
• #5 fishtail gouge: 1″ (25mm) 
• #5 gouge: 1 9/16″ (40mm)
• V-tool: 3/8″ (10mm) 60˚
• Paintbrushes: assorted

Making the Ornament

Transfer the pattern to the blank, and then carve the design with your choice of tools. Outline the details with a woodburner and skew or writing nib. Wash the carving with a spray cleaner, such as Simple Green®, and scrub it with a denture brush. Rinse well, and apply painting while the carving is still wet. Mix equal parts paint and water to create thin washes. Once dry, attach a small jewelry finding or eyelet to the top of the ornament with cyanoacrylate (CA) glue. Display as desired.

Body, hatband, face, sign: antique white (1)

Hat: charcoal (1)

Nose: tangerine (1)

Cheeks: tomato red (2)

Sign pole: coffee bean (3)

Scarf: olive green (3)

1 Delta Creative Ceramcoat®

2 DecoArt Americana®

3 Plaid FolkArt®

Materials:

• Basswood, 5/16″ (8mm) thick: 3 1/2″ x 4″ (8.9cm x 10.2cm)

• Acrylic paints, such as Delta Creative Ceramcoat®: antique white, charcoal,             tangerine; such as DecoArt Americana®: tomato red; such as Plaid FolkArt®:             coffee bean, olive green

• Glue: cyanoacrylate (CA)

• Small jewelry finding or eyelet

• Cord

• Spray cleaner, such as Simple Green®

Tools:

• Carving knife

• Assorted gouges and micro tools

• Woodburner: skew or writing nib

• Denture brush

Steve Russell is from Independence, Iowa. He retired from John Deere Waterloo Works in 2010. About a year before his retirement Steve took up carving. Steve has won numerous awards at both the local and national level. He has held classes and workshops at his studio and with the Northeast Iowa Woodcarvers Club. Contact Steve at sjr1953@hotmail.com.

Want to carve safely without compromising dexterity? Schaaf’s new cut-resistant gloves are just the ticket

By Staff of Woodcarving Illustrated

Birds of a Feather

Carvers provide comfort to communities one small, wooden bird at a time

By Lauren Novosat

The holidays can make for tricky terrain! Let this nostalgic vehicle carry you through

By Marty Leenhouts

Kris Kringle’s winged friends may just change your carving experience forever

By Lee Simpkins

These old-world-style ornaments are a breeze to carve and assemble

By Jan Jenson

Hang out with Saint Nick as he adds the finishing touches before the big day

By Chris Hammack

Paint splatters and craft wire take this familiar animal to new heights

By Edgar Shrum

Give Frosty a run for his money with this charming holiday classic

By Bob Kozakiewicz

Make your morning cup of joe even better with this elegant design

By Josh Rittenhouse

This sweet twist on a kids’ staple might just “disappear” from the gift pile before Christmas morning

By Sara Barraclough

Let this colorful carve stand watch over your presents on Christmas Eve night

By Matt Kincade

This persnickety elf keeps the North Pole shipshape

By Nikki Reese

Don your party shoes and let this sassy character remind you that it’s five o’clock somewhere

By Chris Hammack

Paint or woodburn the letters to make this fun bauble extra-special

By Dwayne Gosnell

Let this lyrical carving bring joy to you and yours this holiday season

By Shawn Cipa